Britain is certainly the European country which has established the most refined tradition of Indian cuisine, for obvious historical reasons. No wonder London boasts some of the best addresses featuring the great classics of Indian gastronomy.

La Porte des Indes, opened in 1996, offers a total change of culinary scene with dishes rooted in French cuisine from Pondichery and other trading posts established at the French colonial times in South India.

The lush decoration of the bar as well as of the restaurant rooms adds to the exotic sensation. When it comes to the plate, the same luxuriant sophistication mixes Indian and French influences. 

A parsee from Bombay, award winning chef Mehernosh Mody became executive chef at London’s Porte des Indes after 10 years of training and experience. He loves experimenting with unusual foods… and unusual drinks. He responded with enthusiasm when he was challenged to create a menu which would match the Morrison Bowmore range of single malts, including Suntory Yamasaki.

 It may sound daring to combine spicy dishes with whisky. There’s a risk of the food overpowering the dram, but not if the paring is carefully worked out. The first whisky dinner initiated at La Porte des Indes obviously proved that both get on together.I

The food was chosen by Mehernosh Mody and each of the five courses paired with a whisky by Colin Dunn of Fior Brands, the United Kingdom distributor of Bowmore, Auchentoshan and Suntory’s range of Japanese whiskies. 

“We have trained the team here” explains Colin Dunn. “We just wanted to create something new with them. The idea behind this meal was to highlight how well Indian food and whisky can be matched, and remove all the misconceptions that good Scotch whisky should only be consumed after a meal.

“Of course,  the complex flavours of whisky won’t work with every food type, but fresh, gently spices food prepared on the tandoor offers the necessary muscle to complement the sprit.”

The subtle character and elegant flavours of Auchentoshan combined beautifully with the opening course, tandoori grilled Scottish salmon with dill and Scottish king scallops in a mild saffron sauce. The saffron sauce enhanced  the cereal and lemony notes of the whisky, giving length to the finish and bringing out a nutty touch. The combination left  a pleasant refreshing and tastebuds teasing sensation on the palate. To make the combination even better,  I would have slightly chilled the whisky.

A starter of tandoori seared foie gras was based on the interplay between oak and sweetness of Auchentoshan Three wood; the whisky providing enough muscle not to be outdone by the characterful starter. Rich, fully flavoured,  the association was quite intimidating, but the crispy honey naan uplifted the pair and eased the combination while the chutney released a sweet and sour fruitiness which toned down the slight bitterness of the malty, oaky character.

With the second starter, the Bowmore 17 year old found a happy relationship with the Mumbai lobster which had been marinated in coconut milk( a hint to the gorse aromas of the malt)

The marriage opened up a full circus of flavours with floral and nutty notes followed by a spicy outburst. It was served with a garlic naan which I found overpowering. I personally hate garlic, which may seem a contradiction in a French person ( but do all Irish have red hair?), I have always found it difficult to match whisky and garlic, the latter aggressively impregnating tastebuds. 

So, though I could not avoid tasting it in the dish, I skipped the naan to better enjoy an interesting exchange between  the peaty flavours of Bowmore and the sweet and firm flesh of the lobster. Quite a complex and intriguing match.



The main dish provided an aromatic progression with the Barbary duck breast glazed in the tandoor and served with a dark roasted spice and tamarind sauce and grilled figs, as it was accompanied by Bowmore 25 year old. An obviously classic marriage between the fruity sauce and the sherry character of the Bowmore 25. A great ‘Pondisherry’ treat!

 Those who think that Indian sweets are not very tempting should have tasted the three small desserts of the menu. Tandoori smoked pears and pink peppercorn mousse, caramelised milk nuggets with nutmeg and Belgian dark chocolate mousse were served with Yamasaki 18 year old. A mix of delicate and subtle flavours with more concentrated ones, especially liquorice and tamarind.

 The 18 year old Yamazaki itself has the same double personality: the sweetness of sherry releasing plumwine aromas is balanced by a dry oakiness opening on liquorice roots.

Once more, the proof was in the pudding. A perfect conclusion to a lusciously aromatic meal. And a beautiful voyage on the once thriving shores of Pondichery