Historically, the French have influenced the world with their undisputed mastery of all things culinary, even in India. Today, the traditional French creole style of India’s Puducherry region (formerly Pondicherry) results in such sparkling menus as that of Porte des Indes, where chefs Mehermosh and Sherin Mody, a husband-and-wife team, reign supreme with their renditions of this eclectic coastal cuisine.

The first thing that hits you on entering the restaurant is the regal profusion of fabrics, colours and greenery, the soothing waterfalls and the waiters dressed luxuriantly in saffron and red, resembling courtiers to the maharajahs of French colonial India. La Porte des Indes is a nostalgic view of the complex might and majesty that was once India, and the setting creates a dramatic impact on your senses, with a promise of the shapes, scents and flavours to come.

And you’re not disappointed, as each dish is testament to the Modys’ skills. Prawns are their speciality (there’s even a separate menu devoted to them) and the policha chemeen (char-grilled giant king prawns marinated with fresh green peppers, garlic and shallots) arrives nestled on a banana leaf and served with a tomato rougail and semolina mash. This is followed by lobster peri peri (lobster marinated in natural yoghurt, garlic, chilli flakes, garam masala and then char grilled), which is a triumph for the chefs. The menu is intelligent and customer friendly, with symbols marking the fieriness of each item.

True to my belief that the best vegetarian food comes out of India, I’m ecstatic with their classic Puducherry dishes of rougail d’aubergine (smoked, crushed aubergine infused with chilli, ginger and lime) and an altogether peerless offering of naintara do pyaz (green okras sautéed with onions, tomatoes and a hint of spice). And then there’s the house favourite: poulet rouge, which is grilled chicken, shredded and marinated in yoghurt and red spices, and served in a creamy sauce. Again, this is Franco-inspired Indian perfection.

We take our coffees and desserts in the lounge, where we sprawl in rattan armchairs before even more sumptuousness arrives. Soon, an array of plates is put before us, each offering a decorative selection of sweet surprises, including ladoo, star anise chocolate mousse, gulab jamin, kulfi and crème “red rice” brûlée.