Britain’s favourite eating experience is done very differently at this indian restaurant just behind Marble Arch tube station – and I don’t just mean the French name. The spectacular venue sprawls across three levels of a former ballroom and everything is a bit over the top – not least the palm tree that grows up through the centre of the building.
While the decor might raise a smile, however, the food is no joke. Parsee fish, steamed whole in mint and coriander chutney, was delicate and aromatic. Smoked crushed aubergine with chilli, ginger and lime was a great mix of flavours, and pomegranate raita was a lush spin on the usual cucumber version.
Individual dishes can be pricey but the set menus and tasting platters offer a bargain culinary odyssey.